Thinking of visiting a less trodden side of Japan – try going on a self-drive holiday in Central Japan! My family of four was eager to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for scenic destinations near the Japanese Alps and the Nagano region. Thus we embarked on a 9-day road trip covering quaint towns, majestic mountains, scenic drives and historic spots.
My travel companions consisted of my husband – the designated driver who gets antsy with me in the driver’s seat, my 13-year-old teen and 10-year-old tween. Do adapt the itinerary according to the pace of your family. Since mine were non-fussy travellers who didn’t need many toilet stops, we could go at quite a quick pace with some of their inputs of course.
Why Self-Drive in Japan
Since Japan uses the right-hand drive, it was easy to adapt to the roads. Drivers are also a lot more patient and gracious (cough) in comparison, with well-maintained roads and clear signages making navigation a breeze.
Driving also offers more flexibility and perhaps some time and cost savings for a family of four. Fuel costs were also relatively lower, we paid about SGD42 for fuel top-ups over the nine days traversing mountain roads and valleys. For tolls, request for the ETC card so tolls are charged to the card as you pass the booths.
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Despite not knowing the Japanese language and reliant on translations apps, we could make out road signs using kanji which has similar Chinese characters.
In addition, we loved the combini stores scattered throughout the roads so we could very easily purchase supplies like coffee, sweets and other essentials if necessary.
Our Itinerary in Central Japan
We flew to Tokyo on a red-eye flight, then took the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagano where we picked up our rental car. Thereafter it was an hour to Matsumoto, our first pit-stop for the road trip. Matsumoto is a popular base for hikers, since it was sited in the basin surrounded by mountains.
First Stop: Matsumoto
Half the family had visited Matsumoto for a hiking trip previously hence they were familiar with the walkable town and took the rest of us around. The biggest draw here was of course Matsumoto Castle, drawing crowds to visit the 5-storey high “impenetrable” fortress.
As a mum of boys, this was a must-see. Head there early as queues can be long, then explore the various parts of the castle and the weapons like guns and muskets used in the fiercest battles during the Edo period.
From the windows archers used to openings for dropping rocks on invaders, the castle even has a hidden floor to prevent successful intrusions. Climb up steep staircase inclined at 30degrees to reach the Keep of the castle which rewards visitors with awesome views of the surrounds.
Then head to Matsumoto City Museum which gives more historical context of the castle and the city. The huge diaorama with plenty of details will keep the kids engaged! Visitors to the museum can also learn more about the area, the livelihoods of the townspeople, traditional equipment and possible hiking routes.
There is even a comfortable playroom for restless children on the first floor. `
Food-wise, we recommend a pit-stop to Fujiwara Soba which sees long queues during mealtimes. So write down your name on the list to reserve a spot, and stroll to the nearby Frog Street to see the many frog sculptures which pay tribute to the creatures that used to frequent the area.
We also loved the traditional Napolitan pizzas served at Pizza Verde. As it is a cosy establishment, do reserve your seats early.
Matsumoto is a quaint Japanese town where the cool mountain air and spring water rejuvenates passing travellers.
Kamikochi
Truth be told, Kamikochi was on my bucket list once I saw pictures of it. It was one reason why we picked Central Japan as the destination. Since Kamikochi is a protected area where only buses can access it, we drove to a car park which was also at a bus terminal served by buses heading to Kamikochi. It was about a 30 minute bus ride from Sawando bus terminal.
One recommended walking route starts at Taisho Pond. It was such an easy walk even preschoolers can walk through it easily! It was a 3km walk that weaves through the pond, the pine forests and even passes an active volcano before taking visitors to the heart of Kamikochi.
We soaked in the breathtaking views of the mountains and bubbling rivers, as well as the autumn foliage. The yellows, reds and greens were so mesmerising that we couldn’t resist taking more pictures. Even though Kamikochi is a popular destination for tourists, the large expanse of space in the wildnerness meant we could find a spot to linger with our own personal space. The boys were happy playing with rocks and sticks.
Another walk we didn’t have time to take was the 1.5 hour walk into Myojin Pond. This will have to wait for our next visit.
For lunch, we had a warm curry and tonkatsu meal at the restaurant sited in Nishi-ito Mountain Lodge.
We went at a leisurely pace as my son was recovering from an ankle injury. Then we left the picturesque paradise to Hirayu onsen to stay for the night. Hirayu is just 30 minutes from Kamikochi, and also one of the stops for buses departing from Kamikochi. It is known for its onsen, so why not soak at the hot spring to ease the weariness of travelling and parenting?
Through Takayama to Toyama
When one mentions Nagano, “gassho houses” which was traditional Japanese farmhouses with thatched roofs might come to mind. Instead of driving all the way to Shirakawa-go which was a well-trodden tourist spot, we decided to head to the child-friendly open museum concept called Hida No Sato Open Air Museum located in Takayama.
This museum was a fun way of learning about the different houses from various periods of history and homes of various professions – farmers, weavers, artisans and more. The 30 houses were carefully preserved with the smell of burning wood wafting through the village just like 200 years back when fire was a source of heat, light and one way to keep pests away.
We loved this museum concept and also enjoyed the traditional games available to play. This was a lovely pit stop too. For hands-on crafters, you can even try to make some crafts at the nearby Crafts Experience Center.
Tateyama-Murodo Alpine Route: Roof of Japan
One reason to head to Toyama which was nearer the coast was its proximity to Tateyama, known as the gateway to the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route. Since we were eager to head to Murodo, we stayed the night at Toyama, then journeyed to take the tram from Tateyama to the highlands!
Do dress according to the season! The day we visited was right after the first snow of the season, this meant we were going to head 2400m above sea level for a snowscape! Murodo is also the highest plateau in Japan, hence fondly known as the roof of Japan. It is where more adventurous hikers can take a 2-hour hike to Mount Tateyama.
My sons were truly excited at the sight of snow. As we journeyed skywards, the landscape changed dramatically from the hues of autumn with a tinge of snow, to heavier snowfall and fully-white snow scape!
The 50-minute bus ride got us even closer to the snowy mountains where clouds converged with peaks.
Do note that like Kamikochi, Murodo is inaccessible in Winter. Recommended visits are from June to October.
We did a quick walk (10 minutes) to Mikurigaike Pond which was a serene blue contrasting with the surrounding snow. One highlight was obviously the opportunity to have snowfights!
Then we took the bus back down to Bijodaira for a hike in the virgin forests full of cedar and beech trees. Some of the Tateyama Cedar trees were over a thousand years old while many of the trees are hundreds of years old in the primeval forest. This was a refreshing route without the hordes of tourists and also an ideal way of warming up the bodies. Coming up close to the beautiful Sugi trees is quite an experience going up close to the thick trunks and wavy lines.
Kaio Bird Park, Seafood & Long Drive to Togakushi
After a long day of hikes, we went a little slower since it was a long day of driving. We were intent to check out the fresh seafood near the coast and ventured to Shinminato Fisherman Wharves, which was a pit-stop for bus loads of tourists.
Himi Fish Market could have been a better option but that meant a longer drive up North. An option to linger at Toyama would be to head further to the coasts.
We chanced upon an empty birding spot which was a wonderful surprise. You can head to the air-conditioned birding station called Kaio Bird Park, use the scopes and just marvel at the many species of birds in the marshlands and in the surrounding trees!
Best of all, this was a free spot to visit. We could see many ducks – Mallards, Mandarins, Teals, Herons and even a Black Kite just handsomely perched on the tree. This made birding really accessible even to non-birders.
As we drove towards Togakushi, we could see even more raptors circling the skies. This would be our longest drive! Since the sun sets at about 5pm, we reached our next accommodation rather late but right in time for dinner.
Kids Ninja Village & Soba
Picking a kid-centric activity in the Nagano area? Kids Ninja Village is where all the Japanese ninja-wannabes flock to! Located near a Ninja training school, this village is where aspiring ninjas can put on their ninja outfits, climb, swing, fly, jump, bounce at many obstacle courses, and more.
Needless to say, my sons had such a great time at the obstacle courses and playing games like throwing shurikens to win prizes. There was also a small museum with ninja-themed memorabilia, toys and real outfits and weapons. We spent about two hours at Togakushi Kids Ninja Village.
There are also a few shrines in the area and beautiful Cedar trees lining the paths.
In addition, Togakushi has plenty of soba restaurants to visit. If you are intending to visit one that is highly-rated, do go early for your meals!
Chestnut Town – Obuse
After a hearty soba lunch, we headed for Obuse – known as Chestnut town due to the chestnut plantations and the Hokusai Museum.
It was a very small Japanese town, with cafes sprinkled all over it serving the famous Mont Blanc. It also had many house gardens where we can just walk in to admire the delicately preened gardens.
You can choose to walk or cycle around the town, visit the museums, or just sit by a café enjoying the pastries.
We also went to a flower garden to take some family photos. The garden is free to visit, has a café Hana Yu next to it and located a street away from a huge supermarket.
One activity the kids will enjoy would be heading to the apple orchard to pick juicy Nagano apples! Nagano is also known for its produce like Muscat grapes and apples.
Kusatsu for Onsen Time
Our final pit-stop for the road trip is the onsen town of Kusatsu. This might have been the most crowded of the lot since there are many hot spring resorts. Tourists, both domestic and foreign ones flock to see the steaming green waters.
Many don Yukatas, ready to visit the public onsen. It’s a bustling town with traditional inns and hot springs, known for the largest flowing water volume.
To the kids, soaking their feet in the hot spring water might be a novelty especially in the chilly weather.
We also took walks in the parks surrounding the town centre. One park to visit is the Sainokawara Park where an emerald green spring flows through, gushing down from the mountains. Going in the early morning meant enjoying the tranquillity of the park without the crowds!
Roadtrip in Central Japan – Done!
After 630km and 13 hours of driving, we completed our road trip in Central Japan. It was definitely a memorable trip navigating not just the valleys, tunnels, mountains but each other’s preferences, opinions and emotions. We all had our favourite bits of the road trip – mine was definitely Kamikochi, Matsumoto and Obuse while the boys loved the snow as well as the Ninja Village.
Here’s the rough guide to our itinerary:
| Day | AM | Drive Time | PM |
| 1 | Singapore / Narita | 1 hour | Narita to Nagano Nagano / Matsumoto |
| 2 | Matsumoto | – | Matsumoto |
| 3 | Matsumoto / Kamikochi | 1.5 hours | Kamikochi/ Hirayu Onsen |
| 4 | Hirayu / Takayama | 1 hour | Toyama |
| 5 | Toyama / Tateyama | 1.5 hours | Toyama |
| 6 | Toyama / Coast | 3 hours | Togakushi |
| 7 | Togakushi | 1 hour | Obuse |
| 8 | Obuse | 1 hour 45 mins | Kusatsu |
| 9 | Kusatsu / Nagano | 1 hour | Nagano |
If your family loves nature and varied adventures out of cities, do consider a self-drive holiday in Central Japan. Yoki kokai wo! (Bon voyage!)
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